20 August 2007

A Day in the Austrian Alps

Now, many of you may be thinking - I wish I could spend a glorious day hiking in the Austrian Alps just like Maria Von Trapp and all those Austrians. Well, before you let those words enter your head, you may want to continue reading to find out what the REAL Austrian Alps are like. This isn´t going to be pretty people. I warn you now.

Yesterday, after awaking from a lovely day in Salzburg, Megan and I were as excited as ever to get hiking in beautiful rolling hills and mountains that surround us looking outside our window - partially because we like to hike, partially because its about time we burned off the pretzels, beer and bakery goods we have gorged on so far. We dressed ourselves in cute little hiking outfits and set out for Untersburg - the famous mountain which opens the movie, The Sound of Music.



After dropping the other Meg off at the train station (she was heading off to Italy to meet her boyfriend Will for the week), Megan and I set off on our journey up the mountain.

Our first challenge came navigating the city bus system. The Information lady - conveniently located right across the street - gave us no help to get to Untersburg but with the help of an adorable (and well-dressed) elderly lady, we were able to make it to the base of the mountain with really no problem. We should have forseen the difficulties ahead.

We bought a map and found Reitsteg - a trail for slightly experienced climbers - on the other side of the mountain. We asked information at Untersburg how to get there, and the lady told us to take bus 35 - it would drop us off right where we needed to go. Reitsteg was not too far, so Megan and I walked without difficulty to a trail which meets with Reitsteg.

At this point, we are feeling pretty jolly. We are finally hiking in the Alps (on Maria Von Trapp´s mountain nonetheless) when suddenly, the trail we are supposed to meet up with has a large, 10-foot barbed wire fence protecting its entrance. Here is where the story starts my friends. There was no choice but to hop it, and hop it we did.



From here we found Reitsteg with ease and set up the mountain. Not even 15 minutes into the climb did we soon find Untersburg to be steep. Not just steep - but straight up the mountain, vertical, up and down, don´t fall backwards unless you want to tumble 15 feet down into a tree, steep. So, a mere 5 or 10 minutes into our hike, we had to stop for water because we were panting. Yes, panting.

However, both being the stubborn people we are, Megan and I were determined to make our way the 3.5 hours up the mountain. As we traversed bridges, wooden steps, tree trunks and rocky trail, we got into a groove and soon found ourselves making good progress. About an hour or so into the hike, the trees became less dense and the view we saw set us on an adrenaline rush towards the top.

(***Note: The pretty, blue sunny skies.)


After more than 3 hours of hiking, we started nearing the top of Untersburg. Everywhere around us we got spectacular views of Salzburg and the beautiful mountainous surrounding areas. I have never been so high or marveled so much as the Austrian landscape. At this point, our legs ached, our butts hurt, and we were still out of breath, but the views made our journey up the mountain completely worth it.

Now...as we started nearing the top, there were some clouds accumulating. Per Weather & Climate class freshman year, I chalked these clouds up to the fact that a lot of times there are clouds over mountains, because all the air gets pushed up over the mountain than dissipates. I blame what happens next on Professor Ackerman.

The air started getting heavy, and it looked like storms could roll through. So, after making it just about to the top, we made the smart, common sense decision to head back down the mountain, seeing as we still had to hike down the entire way we hiked up. It seemed to be getting darker with every passing second, so we tried to hurry a bit (still being safe of course) down the mountain.

Here is the top of the mountain - which you can´t see due to stormy skies.


No less than 10 minutes down the mountain, to our left appears a huge, ginormous rain cloud - which you cannot see through. At all. Then, we start feeling some sprinkles, and at this point, are just hoping the rain keeps off until we get down. Could we have been more wrong?

Suddenly, out of nowhere, it starts raining. I am not talking sprinkles or even a nice shower. I am talking downpour, torrential rain - severe thunderstorm worthy. Now just remember, we have just hiked 3.5 hours up a vertical mountain which means we need get down - on a vertical! Did I mention storm sirens were going off?

Now, we are getting worried because we have at least an hour or two before getting down the mountain and the rain is NOT letting up. Megan is soaked to the bone, I am drenched (and I have our hiking backpack on underneath my pullover as to protect our cameras and other valuables we brought along). So, in other words, I look like a pregnant lady and are hiking down Untersburg - which seems like such a happy place in The Sound of Music. Not for us!

For the next 1.5 hours, Megan and I faced a steady torrential downpour of rain as we are navigating stairs, mudslides, waterfalls and a collection of slippery treats for us, making our way down Maria´s mountain. Now, I try to describe this scene for you, but just imagine the worst rainstorm you have ever been in. Now throw in hiking down a mountain in the Austrian Alps. At one point, I swear to you, we prayed to our Lord (Thank you Jesus!) to get us down the mountain safe, because one little misstep could have sent either of us down a 20 foot drop at any moment. Not to mention the lightning right above our heads every so often.

After sustaining some injuries (minor bruising, minor cuts and extremely sore legs), Megan and I did make it safely down the mountain. Now, I do not know how we made it - seeming as the entire mountain was foggy with rain (we could not see 10 feet in front of us), washed over with tidal pools of water and we may be the two clumsiest people we know. After 5 hours of hiking, I have never been so happy to see land in my entire life.

Soaked with rain and looking like drowned rats, we walked through town and could have swore the locals were saying, 'Look at those two dumb American girls - hiking Untersburg in the middle of a thunderstorm.' Two extremely nice cars stopped and offered us rides, but being the two smart American girls we are, we declined and found the bus station. Cold, freezing and wondering exactly how we got to this place.

To make matters worse, the sun decided to come out. Nuff' said.

We sat at the bus station for a half an hour before the number 21 bus finally came. We stepped on the bus - drenched, shivering and covered with mud, leaves and tree branches. Another hour later, we finally arrived back at the hostel only to find our window had been left open and guess whose belongings were right under than window? Mine.

At this point, Megan and I were so excited to be alive. We first took long (very long) hot showers, washed off our clothes then set in search of food. Needless to say toda, we are nursing sore legs, cuts and bruises but damn it, we are alive and kicking!

Take that Maria Von Trapp!

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